Archive for April, 2009

Forget the Kids, Shrink the Plates

craftsteakny_2_05It works. It’s a simple solution to higher food costs–shrink the plates–offer some excitement. Introduce a new menu with small plates, or happy hour specials, or a new bar menu. These are all strategies that have worked in the past and are making a welcome return to the present. Oh, yeah, also reduce the prices. That’s the combo you want to sell.

Look at The Cheesecake Factory whose portions are so large that Weight Watchers could just set up a booth at each location. Why cater to our obesity problems? Their new solution is simple: the introduction of smaller plates and lower prices--the small plate and snack menu.

Neighborhood places are jumping on the bandwagon of small plates. Here’s a new one: a Washington, DC restaurant, Ardeo, has introduced “middle plates”.  Not that small but not as big nor as expensive as an entree portion.

Restaurants throughout the country are expanding their bar menus to offer more food options in a different setting at a lower price point. It works well in New York with some in the Tom Colicchio empire and seems to be a winning formula to fill a space with drinkers who also dine.

Bring it On.

Diners are ready.

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Is it the Chef OR Is it the Food?

Good question. The answer has changed as we have changed. We have truly changed. OK, maybe not everybody but plenty of people recognize that the world of before (as in a year or so ago) is gone and may be gone for ever and with it the habits of frivolity. The belief was that it was never going to end. The good times would keep on rolling and restaurants would open on every corner paralleling the Starbucks mentality. The belief was simple: build it and they will come.

Wrong.

That world is over. Permanently over? I doubt it, but over. Whoever we are now is so different from who we were. We are a little more conscious of our dollar, a litle less forgiving of attitude and poor service and so much more interested in quality, in value–the total package.

Bragging rights used to include: “I ate at so and so’s new spot” (insert big name national talent). Now it is a little more questionable who is bragging about what. The whole bravura concept may be over. Are you going for the big name or for the food, the product, the value?

When you hear a chef on a nationally syndicated radio program say that customers will figure out that it’s about the quality and not the fancy name, you know you are hearing the real thing. Michael Landrum is one chef who gets it. He is not a big name national player, but he has fired up the Washington DC restaurant universe with four restaurants and his commitment to open another quality product in a section of town that was starving for quality and non fast food chain answers. He has lowered some steak prices, offered his burger menu at the bar of one of his full service restaurants and fills his dining rooms with guests who appreciate his commitment to quality.

At the same time chefs on the radio show were talking about the challenges facing them today, it became official that the new W Hotel (W Washington DC) which whotelopens this summer near the White House (the former Hotel Washington) would have big name talent–Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Maybe that announcement is a true compliment to the city’s climb up the epicurean ladder. Maybe; maybe not. Of course, it’s exciting about Jean-Georges bringing his branded steakhouse to the city, but how many fancy cuts of steak can we support? Landrum does steak well (or rare, if you prefer), and does it at an affordable price point for beautifully hand-cut meats.

When the New York Times writes about so-called lesser beef cuts, and the food critic writes about restaurants that have reconfigured their space and their menus to accommodate the new diner, then we have further validation about the dining scene. The message  translates simply into a new world order with a focus on quality.

We cannot return to those old days, no matter how fond the memories are. We need to respect our new world and make it work for us.

Those who get it will get us.

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I Can't Be the Only One Out There

When I wrote the server-diner dance blog the other day, I kept wondering why my experiences are unique. They’re NOT. Others have to have similar emotions if they eat out. You know the two-step where you try to take the lead and the server keeps interrupting and correcting. Well, tell me about it.

Or tell me about the other night when you went out to dinner and every part of the order was wrong, but no one seemed to care. Not even a  ”sorry, maam,” or can we buy you a drink, or…More an attitude that this is the way we do things here. Move on.

How about the meal where they forgot one entree but served the other people at the table?vintage50How about that awkward moment when three people tried not to feel intimidated about eating and the fourth kept saying it’s OK, mine will be here soon.

We love to eat out. Anything beats living in the kitchen and preparing meal after meal. We want to get out of our grubby clothes or lose the work clothes and find something to wear that feels less restraining than cubicle blue.

We just want it to be special.

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Ok, Here ARE the Rules–They're Silent But Visible

skatemonEvery game has a set of rules. Dining out is no different. There are multiple players, both on the restaurant side and the diner’s side. Which one has the home team advantage or who wins depends on how the game is played. Since this is a two-party system of server and diner, the experience need not turn into fast food.

The rules are quite simple: The guest sets the rules. If I am in the middle of a conversation, you, the server, need to figure out your pacing. Not every conversation should be interrupted. Timing is everything. A server can learn so much from a quick glance, a listen to, a sense of urgency that may pervade a conversation. Darting eyes that say not now are quite revealing. Those that say, where have you been are giving different instructions.

Everybody is on a schedule. A server wants to service the table, hence the name, “server.” The guest, who after all is paying for the experience and for the overall sense of relaxation, has come for some good ole fashioned hospitality. The server needs to know, to watch, to understand.

Now let’s deal the deck. Nothing stacked about it, just ready for attention. Table of four gets seated while they are deep into conversation. The server hovers about pouring water. OK, rule one, pour the water. No conversation needed.

Server has the look at me face--OK, we start looking her way, and she tears into a back touching explanation of wines, specials, and how great it is to see us.  Rule two–no touching, even mild guest shoulder patting. No touching.

Sometimes, you the guest, want service immediately as in where’s the wine list, let’s get a bottle. Other times you are more patient especially when the wine list is on the back side of the menu in front of you. Rule three--don’t talk about wine by the glass when guests are studying the list. Let them tell you their preference or allow them to ask you if there is a by-the-glass list.

When the wine order is placed, it is a good idea to bring the wine. If there is a problem or unavailability of the selection, inform them immediately. Do not disappear for an interminable amount of time after they have ordered the wine. Rule four–pace and space. Pace yourself and space the experience. Pouring wine itself can often be a deal-breaker. Pour some into the glass, not the whole bottle evenly divided by the number of guests.

When it is time to explain the specials, do so in a straightforward, short manner.  Skip the fancy air of verbage, rather keep it simple and informative and do not try to upsell an expensive nightly special. Guests do not like that. Remember the evening involves give and take. Rule five do not push.

Dining itself is the true circus. Study the table and don’t yank plates before everyone is finished unless a guest so signals. It is a little like a Morse Code; you have to understand the tapping, the unspoken rules. In turn guests need to be tolerant of your life from behind the notepad.

As for that last drop of wine, do not grab the bottle and assume nothing is left. More often than none, a half glass or more may be hiding in the bottom of the bottle. It is painful to watch a guest grab the bottle back from a server and show how much wine is really left. I see it frequently. This is a simple rule. Do not overpour and do not yank.

From all this dialogue, you would assume dining means warfare. Actually it is a performance of fine acts broken down into doable scenes. Nothing is terribly complicated but everything needs to be heard.

Then both the server and the guest benefit from a fine evening together.

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Cheery-O: The Good News Wagon

One thing  for sure, when times get tough, the tough go for sweets. Chocolate sales are zooming into record territory. I personally have helped those numbers, but it is an everyday occurrence for me regardless of the ups and downs of life. Higher cocoa numbers work best; dark chocolate rocks. I especially love the part about it being good for you!

Besides sweets, restaurant applications are seeing a big increase in New York City. Many in the dining universe consider New Yorkvalrohona the food capital and are regarding this good news as an outcome that will impact their market soon.

As for wine sales, the same is true. The numbers are uplifting. We may not be drinking the most expensive wine, but we are drinking, and that helps make everyone happy. Remember there are plenty of great wines in the more affordable category.

A new restaurant, a bit of chocolate, a glass of wine: a perfect marriage.

There’s lots to celebrate.

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When the Formula Works, It's Unique

bethesda_diningroomSounds like an odd header, but in the restaurant world, it applies. Take a Washington, DC area landmark like the family-owned Lebanese Taverna which can trace its roots to the early 1980s. They are now a restaurant empire with six full service restaurants, four cafes, a catering business, and a market. Each restaurant is unique to its location, servicing the expectation of the perceived demographic. The most basic compliment is that they are survivors of restaurant whims and trend dining. They have survived by offering consistently high quality foods. Menus of course have commonalities but why mess with something that works.

The irony is in this stressful dining out time, they just opened their largest location and quite possibly their most beautiful, in potentially overgrown Bethesda, Maryland, a top livable city. There is a lot of restaurant space, both indoors and outdoors, and even a takeout entrance. To survive in this economic environment, you need multiple persona. They are a child-friendly environment but also a wonderful restaurant for an adult Mediterranean experience.

They have made themselves both an adult and family dining destination. Certain days of the week, there are lunchtime activities with a musician or a clown where the entertained child eats free with an adult purchase. That works.

Other nights have menu specials such as multi-course, prix-fixe dinners. There are, of course, coupons for email subscribers, a strategy that works well for almost any restaurant.

This is a whatever it takes environment that recognizes quality cannot be sacrificed. Whatever they are doing sends a strong message to other restaurateurs: be creative, it takes work to make it. It can be done.

These are the type of restaurants that will continue to thrive as long as we remember to reward ourselves by dining out.

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It's Time: Be Your Own Locavore

We’ve heard so much about being a locavoresingle_ebox_terraearthbox, buying local, focusing on food miles, and buying in season, that it’s time to dig into the concept on our own. In most parts of the country, you can get the soil ready without too much of a worry of another frost. If your area is still susceptible to a nightly temperature drop, then keep the seeds in the garage or a sheltered place before considering ground planting.

Burpee seed company is thrilled that consumers are digging the concept. They are in the midst of a record season and have generously been helping community gardens by increasing their seed donations to help feed the less fortunate.

If your space is limited or your interest in manual labor is less than zero, the Earth Box may be the perfect solution. It is an all-in-one garden that basically waters for you. I love how confident the company is: they will refund your money if your garden does not produce the anticipated output. It comes with its own ground cover so weeds are never a worry, and the reservoir controls the water output so overwatering is not an issue. This is an easy way to garden.

For the more ambitious who want to feel at one with the soil and have had little luck with seeds, then it’s time to visit the local garden centers or home retailers and buy the starter plants that have fared well and healthily in a greenhouse somewhere.

Just take into account some of the enemies of gardening: deer in so many areas have become voracious gardeners, or produce eaters, and can make short work of your efforts. Buy deer netting. Weeds are unsightly and can easily be avoided. There are plenty of weed control fabrics which roll out over the tilled soil and keep the weeds under control.

Buy what you eat or want to eat. No point in a single corn plant, it will not produce cobs as cross-pollination and plenty of land are necessary. Assess your sun hours–if you have a shady plot, save your tomato dollars for the farm market, they will not grow in your garden.

It’s fun for individuals of all ages as so many products make it accessible. Young children will start eating their veggies if they helped prepare the home garden where they can go out and pick the crops nightly.

It’s good, it’s tasty, it’s healthy, and it started with just a simple dig.

A personal victory garden.

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How Big of A Knife Do You Need?

cleaverJust a regular steak knife does not seem big enough to slash prices at many steak restaurants. Morton’s, The Palm, Ruth’s Chris, and Sullivan’s have all advertised promotions. The one from The Palm today may prove the most shocking as it demonstrates how much money they are now willing to accept to get you in the door.

If you are an email subscriber or a member of their frequent guest club, your inbox greeted you with a coupon offer valid until the end of May: “Our Biggest & Best Filet Mignon Dinner Offer.” The $39 a person promotion includes a starter, a 14 oz Filet, a Filet Mignon Oscar, or a wild Alaskan Halibut Filet and a choice of a side.

The continual flow of offers from The Palm parallels my earlier inbox overload of promotions from Starbucks. When they keep on coming, it feels just like a banner headline: We’ve got a problem, and here is today’s solution. Does it fill tables or coffee cups? You hope so for their sakes, but when you read between the promotional lines, you have to wonder.

Another company looking at ways to fill tables is Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You which is once again offering triple points for their members when they dine out this coming Monday, April 27. Are triple points the right incentive or was this promotion so successful that it will be repeated monthly?

Promotions have found a friend in email lists. If you want a dining out deal, then sharing your email address with your favorite restaurant may be the smartest strategy of the moment. We haven’t even received the bulk of May promotions yet.

Just you wait.

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An Unnecessary Addition–Take It Off

Seriously, I do not need someone to tell me how much to tip. Some new restaurant “customer copy” parts of the receipt have the suggested amount for 15%, 18% and 20 % tips. Glad they stopped there. I know what to tip and why.

This is starting to feel a lot like a Starbucks tip jar. I order, you serve, I tip. I have been known to tip no less than 15 % and as high as 25%. I tip for good service and not just delivery. By the way, I do tip the delivery guy at least 10% and the carry-out person 10%. I get frustrated by poor service and sloppy table rituals: Wait, I’m not done with the wine, put the glass down. I recognize that being a server or a waiter is hard work and most work for the potential of tips.

I just do not like a restaurant to assume that my addition skills are so poor that I cannot figure out what to do when dining out. I could always turn over the bill, use the provided pen and practice my multiplication tables and come up with something pretty good–start with 10% of a dollar is X and then go from there!

I hope some fancy restaurant point of sale software system is not including this end note on all receipts. It truly is unnecessary. Good service is what it’s all about. If the chef can’t get the dish right, the server merely brought it out, he didn’t underseason it or over pepper it. Blame the chef but don’t hold the server hostage.

Here’s my tip for you: don’t tell me. Let me decide the right amount. Most people can come up with a fair response.

I can do it.tip-jar

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The Placebo Effect of Environmental Good

A friend decided she could help me understand how to go green by introducing me to a product she has started using: Seventh Generation non-toxic, no chlorine, no phosphates, lemon scent Automatic Dishwashing Gel.

She’s a good friend, and her heart was in the right place. She probably left out a few important details: you first need to wash the dishes and especially the silverware well before putting in your dishwasher. That way the product might work.

Wait–isn’t the dishwasher supposed to do that, and all I’m supposed to do is rinse or in some cases just load? People have been telling me for years that my fancy machine needs little effort from me. It knows what it’s supposed to do: clean.

Now those same people are probably wondering why I am washing everything thoroughly before loading kitchen-faucet the dishwasher. It’s simple: I like to unload the dishwasher, see my reflection in the sparkle of the silverware, and get on with my day. Now, I inspect each utensil carefully and look at the plates and glasses to see if they need round two. I am most likely using more water than ever before; definitely way more elbow grease. This is an example when going green costs significantly more.

So for the record, let me say, I tried. I gave the product a chance to prove me wrong. It failed miserably. My knives look terrible even when they appear to be clean. They have no shine. My plates are merely ok. Too much effort involved in this demonstration. I am a little sad for my friend who bought a case of this stuff, and for the environment as this Earth Week will have me go out and purchase my tried and true solution to a shine: Cascade. I apologize to everyone, but maybe by the Eighth Generation, I can try this again.

No good deed goes unpunished.

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