This is the time of the year when every wine critic and those who regularly write about wine profess to have found the perfect wine to accompany the bird. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but there is no such thing as a single wine that defines the holiday. There are many wonderful wines that match well with the holiday feast and some have a place at the table and others are perfect for a specific food.

Yet, when we think of a celebration, we often think of a sparkler, and that is a wonderful way to begin the holiday. With champagne sales way down or as some headlines say, flat, it’s time to bring the bubbly back to the table. Even with a little glimmer of positive economic news, there are many fine sparkling beverages that do not break the bank. Yes, sparkling seltzer and soda work wonders, too.

As for alcoholic sparkling beverages, Prosecco from Italy, Cava from Spain, and domestic sparklers from California and New York qualify nicely. Their sales have been steadily improving as they match a broader range of budgets. If you’re looking for a certified French Champagne that has come down in price, then I suggest a visit to your favorite purveyor as specials abound and indications are for more reductions in the upcoming month.

It’s ironic that the champagne industry has always tried to convince the consumer that champagne does not need to be saved for birthdays, anniversaries, and holidays. Now with a major holiday coming up, they are struggling with trying to get the consumer’s attention and regain a spot at the table.

So many choices; so many foods; so many preparations. There is no set rule book.

Drink what you like.