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Time to Get Involved with Food Issues

No one can be immune to the messages about food shortages or food deserts. A full range of food topics have managed to become front page news including problems with our food supply and food safety issues. Whether we are talking about obesity and its impact on the health of the nation or the lack of uniformity or good decision-making in our school lunch programs, we are talking food. Hunger statistics are staggering when we put these figures up against the placard that reads “World’s Greatest Nation.” Should there be millions of Americans in the bread line? These are food issues that affect everyone.

Solutions seem to be as prolific as the number of individuals offering advice. Now there is a strategy that everyone can employ and use wisely. Tomorrow, October 24 is the 1st National Food Day. What does that phrase really mean? In its most simple terms, it means, that there will be an emphasis on food issues throughout the country. Most cities have signed on with some sort of program and chefs, of course, are playing a significant role in the program.

What about the individual response? Yes, we can all get involved and do something. One day can make a difference. Support your local farmer. There are still plenty of farmstand markets bringing in the best of fall fruits and vegetables.  In some communities, individuals are helping plant a school garden so that young children can benefit from what is truly fresh. Restaurants are having a large variety of programs to bring in individuals and demonstrate how we can all pitch in and make a difference. Find a sustainable food project in your community and participate.

Yes, everyday can be a food day, but sometimes we need to pull back and think about how we can help others and create a stronger, better, more harmonious approach to food issues.  We can be a healthy nation.

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The Attack on the Healthy Plate

Not all plates are created equal. Nor are all healthy plates the true domain of healthy eating. That’s what Harvard nutrition researchers demonstrate in their rebuke of the new USDA guidelines (My Plate) for healthy eating. They applaud the Agency for getting rid of the Pyramid approach to eating but find fault with its newest iteration as being too vague.  They believe that there is more to the story than just saying you need to eat foods in these categories. The Harvard nutritionists are not answering to any potential interest group as they speculate guides the USDA in some of its decision-making.

The Harvard study exposes the faults of generalizing food changes as they take apart each segment and enhance the approach with specificity. For instance with proteins they say not all proteins have the same value for eating healthy. They suggest limiting meat intake and choosing other, healthier foods such as fish, poultry, or beans. They define their adjustments as the Healthy Eating Plate.

The Harvard study is not a complaint against the categories but a source of additional information on how that plate should be filled.  Specifics matter; not just categories. Let’s break it down:

Fill 1/2 of the plate with fruits and vegetables and focus on adding as much color and variety. They say, “potatoes and French fries do not count as vegetables” because of their high carb count which create the same sugar high as sweets. Interestingly some reports came out this week favoring white fruits as the healthier fruits. Not this study!

Put whole grains on 1/4 of your plate. Use brown rice and whole-grain pasta and limit white rice and other refined grains.

Make a protein choice the final 1/4 of the plate. They say eggs are fine (unless there are some additional health limitations), but red meat and processed meats such as cold cuts and bacon should be avoided.

Use healthy oils such as olive and canola and limit intake of butter.

Drink water, tea, or coffee (with little or no sugar) and limit milk/dairy and juice consumption.

The researchers believe that the above specifics further define the overall categories of the new food guidelines and increase the heart-healthy benefits of careful eating. They stress the importance of staying active as an inherent component of any approach to improving lifestyle choices

Now if we could just figure out how to get enough food to people that have little choice in their selections, each of these plate approaches would have greater, long-term benefits.

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Eating with Uncle Sam

I can think of no better time than a few days before Labor Day to introduce you to a wonderful book from the National Archives. It is easy to think of this mammoth building as a holder of major historical documents. To us in the food community that includes recipes that parallel the important events of history.

The major undertaking of a food exhibit, “What’s Cooking Uncle Sam,” a pop-up restaurant, American Eats Tavern, and a cookbook, Eating with Uncle Sam, has added a whole new chapter to the collections from the Archives and the Presidential libraries. Yes, food has played an important role in our history and much of what we do and comment on today within the universe of food has its earliest roots tied into a major document that has been preserved. Think of the current trendy chef movement toward the healthy concept of Meatless Mondays. It was during World War II that Americans were asked to have a meatless day (Tuesday) and such a tradition remained a strong staple of households many years after the War ended.

Touring the exhibit at the Archives gives one a bountiful repast of our history and how food evolved within the culture. Dining nearby at the Jose Andres restaurant (America Eats Tavern), lets one celebrate our history with a taste of the original recipes. After all how many types of Catsup have evolved over the years! A good way to test your palate. Now it all comes together with this new book.

One of the most discussed posters in the exhibit is entitled “Eat the Carp” which serves as an introduction to the fish chapter which includes a recipe for Paprikosh (1917-20) which today we might call a fish hash. Or try Lady Bird Johnson’s famous Shrimp Squash Casserole.

If sweets are more to your liking, there are plenty of recipes to try including Aunt Sammy’s Radio Recipe of Fruit Cake. After all, we wonder how some recipes ever evolved! How about a recipe for Fondant with the accompanying 1917-19 poster “Sugar: Save It.”

These little tastes should help you set a table of historical recipes. If you can’t make it to the Archives before the exhibit closes in early January, then take a You Tube tour.

In the meantime, enjoy the history and the recipes as you recognize the importance of keeping records.

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GF Regs Re-Open for Comment

It is a tad ironic to mention on one hand how the phrase “Gluten-Free,” or GF as it is listed on many products, has become mainstream knowledge. Yet, the other hand frantically waves for attention as the FDA has extended the comment period for 2007 regs on labeling food “gluten-free” for an additional 60 days. Wait, 2007 regs are not yet finalized and put into law? What is wrong with this picture?

Let’s see where to begin. How about chronologically? As in this is August 2011 and comment submission materials are now due in early October! Have we not wasted 4 years in trying to figure out how to help individuals who are by illness, as in Celiacs, in need of certified foods? The FDA says we are only talking about 1 % of the population that struggles with Celiac. I struggle with that low percentage for it hardly seems a day passes without more attention to this illness. Celiac research paints a different picture, a more startling numeric: 1 in 133 American people has Celiac, according to the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness.

How about the people who are gluten intolerant? That number is certainly growing. The FDA focus is only on the US, but we know some countries, such as Ireland, have taken the lead on product identification and restaurant preparedness. Sure, more restaurants in the states are offering gluten-free menus and increasing their range of selections, but what about the security issue? Everyone needs to be certain that what is labeled or described as GF, truly has zero gluten.

Individuals who cannot tolerate gluten continue to struggle with dining out choices as they fear the separation of foods may not be tightly monitored. These are not whimsical fears. They are life-and-death matters.

So what happened to the “new” FDA that was promised to be a more responsive agency? Seems it is still buried under mounds of paper and limited in its roll-out of important mandates. What can a foodservice professional or a consumer do? React; respond within this extended deadline. Go to www.regulations.gov, and submit a comment. Follow the link.

As concerned consumers and food professionals, we cannot let this comment period slip away and allow mounds of paper to be ignored. We’ve had enough of that. GF and gluten intolerance deserve better attention and protection. Now.

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Trouble in FoodLand

Maybe it’s the extreme heat gripping parts of the country or maybe it’s just that time of the year when the ducks get lined up properly and months of research come rushing out the gates. That’s where we are in the food world.

I challenged Congress (the House) when they came up with the money-saving notion of switching to styrofoam cups in their cafeteria. It seemed like a backwards step then as environmental issues needed to be considered. Now several months later the formaldehyde/styrofoam study has come out, and it validates much of what many of us have believed for a long time. Skip the styrofoam.

The same goes for food on pesticide lists. For a number of years there have been lists of fruits and vegetables that should be considered safe and those that should by default move into the organic purchase pile. There have always been some obvious ones such as the berries which hug the soil. (If you crave strawberries, consider organic).  It was common knowledge that if you could peel it, you could remove many of the invading pesticides. Not so fast, Jones.

The report from The Environmental Working Group points a rather strict finger at a fruit that is readily available and well recognized by most: The Apple. It tops the latest list of fruit-invaded pesticides. Apples have had other issues in the past with spraying, but the common belief has been that you could wash the apple well and solve the problem. This report discredits that philosophy.

So what is one to do? It is true that organics have an increased presence in most grocers and markets, but as we well know, the price for switching from the regular produce aisle to the organic one can greatly increase one’s food bill. Not everyone is a candidate for organic shopping. We want variety, and the apple has often been the mainstay of packed lunches and a go-to snack.

According to the report, the apple has some company that gives pause to summer purchases: Cilantro was tested for the first time, and the herb ranked highest in overall pesticide infusion. Its position gives it the unenvious title of having the most unapproved pesticides in any product since the guide was first started in 1995! Not a good position to be in.

Here are the rankings of the 53 fruits and vegetables from the “Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides. Celery is probably pretty happy as it no longer tops the Dirty Dozen; it dropped to 2nd place! Celery, spinach, sweet bell peppers, potatoes, lettuce and greens (kale and collards) are the vegetables most likely to retain pesticide contamination. As for those on the Clean Fifteen, (The vegetables least likely to test positive for pesticides), they found onions, sweet corn, asparagus, sweet peas, eggplant, cabbage, sweet potatoes, and mushrooms. As for the fruits that score the best, those with the least pesticide residue, think avocado, mango, pineapple, watermelon, and grapefruit.

Just a week or so ago, the USDA introduced The Plate and took the Food Pyramid out of our lexicon. The plate is stacked in favor of fruits and vegetables. A little irony there, as we need to put the safest fruits and vegetables on the plate; not just any fruits and vegetables!

Timing is everything. Don’t forget your reusable container for coffee!

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Someone’s in the Kitchen with Uncle Sam

Not quite the Dinah song, but clearly a spirited shout-out to the National Archives for putting together a phenomenal exhibit, “What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?” The answer quite simply is that everything we know about food in this country has some piece of history attached to it and the exhibit underlies the strong connection.

In the past few years since the Obama Administration took office, it seems that food has become a major player in the national conversation. We have talked about the White House Garden, the commitment to getting people to Move off the couch and be aware of their food intake. Obesity has been a major topic of concern as has the School Lunch program. Yet, so many of these discussions have their roots in much earlier times. It is impossible to speak of food safety legislation today without thinking about the letter Upton Sinclair wrote President Theodore Roosevelt.

Our current obsession with food, chefs, and food trends is nothing new. Buying local and supporting the farmer has deep-seeded, yes, it’s true, roots in our country’s agricultural history. You’ll be able to study the past while reflecting on how so much of what we believe today parallels our government’s earliest commitments to food safety. No need to make this sound so serious, as the exhibit focuses on all the aspects of our food culture.

What this exhibition hall is filled with it the how the Federal government’s programs intersected with our lives whether we are referencing food safety regulation or tracing the early paths of those we affectionately call “agricultural pioneers.” Besides enjoying the numerous posters from the collection including the already popular “Vitamin Donuts” or “Uncle Sam Says , Garden to Cut Food Costs.” My initial favorite, “Eat the Carp” includes the advice, “The muddy taste can be washed away.”

Trust me, you’ll have fun exploring the original records (“Eat More Cottage Cheese“) that explain the history of our country through its food supply with an emphasis on four distinct influences on our food environment: Farm, Factory, Kitchen, and Table.

Check out the event calendar as numerous additional programs and speakers have been lined up to supplement the standing exhibit. The exhibit opens today and continues through January 3, 2012. You need to know that date as you’ll want to go more than once!

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Time to Refocus Your Geometry: Pyramid Death

Just as color alerts became a confusing part of our daily routines, the food pyramid chart has confounded “new” thinking about food and is about to die a natural death. As in, it will be removed from the visual universe of what we should eat. It is high time the icon was put aside into the annals of food history. Yet, what will the new look say about our food when all is revealed on June 2? The pyramid becomes history, and the plate details the new food visual.

Not just any plate, but one that has been approved by the First Family. A plate that says, less is better but what constitutes less will be unveiled in stages. We have become a full plate society from our parents earliest admonitions to finish your food to dining out and expecting full plates brimming over with food. Oversize restaurant portions were supposed to imply monetary value but instead helped contribute to our obesity numbers.

The President and the First Lady exemplify their commitment to exercise and good eating habits. The White House Garden has been a huge success and farm markets continue to expand in close proximity to the White House. At the same time some of the nation’s top chefs have contributed their time and expertise to improving the school lunch program. Logically, the next step is to take the tired pyramid of foods and replace its message with one that stresses vital health information. This is a more active focus that demonstrates the importance of being active and eating healthy. In addition to the USDA, other government agencies will help drive the important message.

Making the plate a thing of beauty with an emphasis on fruits and vegetables is a natural starting point. After all we are in the heart of the growing season and product availability. Grocers are competing with farm stands to show that locally grown food can be readily available to all shoppers.

Eating healthy has new rules and as a nation the time has come to step up to the plate and move into a healthier position. We welcome the pyramid retirement party.

It’s time to set up a healthy plate.

 

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Vegetable Anarchy

It’s hard to believe that a single vegetable can be the arch enemy of the cafeteria line. We’ve talked plenty about the high caloric count that seems representative of the school lunch program. Jamie Oliver created a Revolution around it and top chefs have joined First Lady Michelle Obama to create front page awareness of the startling and disturbing childhood obesity numbers. Can one food, a vegetable in fact, the lowly potato, mash up such emotion?

According to the USDA, the blame rests with the potato, and the Department wants to cut back its prominence in the school lunch program. Irony of ironies: The Agriculture Department has identified the white potato as its top villain, but the Idaho Potato Commission just received top marks from the American Heart Association for the spud’s benefits. Who’s the villain?

Let me think about that. Is one food responsible for the rise in obesity, diabetes, or heart-related issues? Can there be a negative super-food? Potatoes, even white potatoes, can be served in a number of ways–schools are making adjustments to the fried mentality. Rather than blame one food or one color of food, let’s concentrate on the reality: Overeating is the arch enemy, and we CAN do something about it. At the same time, we cannot lose sight of childhood hunger issues. The School Lunch Program (which for many youngsters now also includes a breakfast tray) is important and in more cases than we want to count, may be the primary sustenance for a significant part of the population.

We can cut back on fried foods and try to introduce additional vegetables into our diets, but remember not everyone’s food budget has the same monetary input. Oliver drew attention to the fact that many of the children and the parents in his test community had no familiarity with fresh vegetables. We can make changes, but we do not need to point fingers at the simple spud. It is not the root cause of the problem! The potato industry has, of course, galvanized its members with a strategic program: Keep Potatoes in School.

Sure the sweet potato appears as the potato survivor, but the school lunch program needs continual, additional re-imaging. The focus must be greater than just delivering the potato its death knell.

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The Archivist and The Chef

What a great story line: An archivist walks into a restaurant and says he likes to cook. The chef responds, I like history! Welcome to the world of David Ferriero, the Archivist for the National Archives and the world of award-winning chef, Jose Andres. The two atypical paths have come together in a joint effort that will combine the food history from the Archives collection with the restaurant acumen of recent James Beard Outstanding Chef recipient Andres.

Now a little background. The National Archives is the Nation’s repository of history, and the impressive food collection is a vital piece of that history. They have culled their materials to create an exhibit which will open June 10, 2011. “What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?” will showcase 85 original records which trace the origins of the programs and the legislation aimed at the food supply and reflect the effects government programs have had on our food choices and preferences. Visitors will have an opportunity to examihttp://www.allbeforecoffee.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=8289&action=edit&message=10ne letters, diaries, photos, and maps from the collection. The Exhibition will focus on four broad themes: Farm, factory, kitchen, and table.

Then there is the world of internationally recognized Spanish chef Jose Andres who makes his home in Washington, DC and is the master of the restaurant scene with his restaurants under the creative arm of his ThinkFood Group. Andres will serve as the Chief Culinary Advisor to the exhibit. He calls himself a “cook and a storyteller,” and his most humble story, apropos to this exhibit, is his own personal success and achievements in his adopted country. Andres’s passion for food and how it can teach us to understand nations and history will become evident in the July 4th opening of his newest endeavor, America Eats Tavern. It is no coincidence that this pop-up 6-month restaurant will be on 8th Street within view of the Archives and in the Cafe Atlantico space which will move to  a new home.

Andres believes that chefs tell a story and that this restaurant, opening in collaboration with the Archives exhibit and in partnership with the Foundation for the National Archives, will expand food knowledge for all visitors. This unique, first-of-a-kind partnership will open the eyes of visitors to understand our nation’s past and project them into understanding the importance of food in our culture and our heritage.

Different titles; different jobs: One Nation of Food.

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Making the Lunch Line a Safe Haven

We have written extensively about the importance of making the school lunch program a model of healthy eating. It is not about the secret sauce, but about how we are setting up a paradigm for disaster. High-caloric meals with multiple carbs contribute to overweight youngsters, a very negative picture of future generations. We can do better and have been waiting for direct legislative action. The National School Lunch Program and School Breakfast Program are due for such an overhaul. Today Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack announced the proposed changes.

Note that this is the first time in 15 years these standards will be upgraded. That in itself is shameful. Enough has been written about the growing national waistline. It is not possible for everyone to find foods that are healthy as budgetary constraints often make such purchases prohibitive. Not everyone has the natural, organic, local dollar budget, but we expect our schools to feed those in these programs foods that are healthy and safe.

Proposed changes include the reduction of sodium. Salt does not have to be the only taste-inducer. Under the proposal, salt will need to be reduced by half. Likewise, reduced-fat milk will be the drink of choice, calorie counts will be lowered, and whole grains will be required. As for the potato chip toppings, they are limited to one meal a week as starchy vegetables are so defined.

Currently over 32 million youngsters participate in these programs. We are not talking about a small percentage of our population. The affect on the future can easily be seen mathematically. Change will not occur overnight, but we must remain optimistic that such improvements will be beneficial for the entire society. Remember that for many of these youngsters, the school meal program provides over half of their daily food intake. Money will be increased for the districts as part of the Healthy Hunger-Free Kids Act which provides for the improvement of the nutritional quality of the foods that schools get from the USDA for their breakfast and lunch programs. On the website, you can view a sample school lunch menu and readily grasp the nutritional changes.schoolmealscover.php

We can do better for our children. It’s time for the proposed rules to become reality.

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