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Food Words/Concepts of the Year, the Decade

Now that we are in the wind-down stage of the month, the year, the decade, it’s time to look back before we focus our energies on the brighter future. It’s coming, right?

In the food world, it’s been a vocabulary buster. New words were created to define the state of the industry and the intensity of the passionate chef and consumer. All who were interested in food and sourcing (there’s a word) became trend followers as everyone seemed to consider himself a foodie (bad word, overused).

The word locavore was born. This is a word that says it all and says too much, all at the same time. Everyone wanted a ride on this gravy train as a way to support the farmer and all the local producers. People wanted to be called locavores for all their efforts! Food miles became an added descriptor helping people explain that proximity plays an important role in all our purchases. Some even chastised those who exceeded purchases beyond a 100-mile radius.

This was certainly the decade for the farmer, a previously forgotten soul who was hidden under big agriculture’s compost. Although statistics remain gloomy in terms of the small farmer’s livelihood, people wanted to connect with farmers and became loyal devotees of farm markets which managed to end the decade with much higher visibility. CSAs grew in popularity and became more mainstream than alternative as they were a decade or so ago. Green became our favorite color as we recycled and composted: We finally understood Kermit’s mantra.

Vegetable gardening became a headline grabber. Everyone dug the garden culture this year including The White House one, spearheaded by First Lady Michelle Obama who stressed healthy eating.

One of my favorite new food phrases being thrown about is ranch of origin. If you can’t find it locally, then at least you want to know where it is coming from and who is bringing the product to market. I just saw that phrase for the first time not too long ago and believe it will be a keeper. Knowing our food source has become an important shopping goal in light of some of the more fearful food words of the year: food recalls and food safety.

Of course, there’s been heightened interest in organics, but price has been a problem this year with the bleak economic situation, but organic dairy has proven a growth industry.  More people are discovering food allergies and the gluten-free market has literally exploded.

Sustainability has become an important consideration, especially in terms of  the dwindling fish population and the importance of finding foods that are not being overfished. Is it wild has become a common query as farm-raised fish, once a darling concept, lost its luster as questions occur about the water itself–are the fish swimming in chemically-laden runoff?

As for new foods and those we retired: Tilapia has certainly grown in popularity basically because of its less expensive price point and its versatility. Kobe Beef quietly succumbed to the new reality of less spending money and was replaced by its less expensive-sounding name, Wagyu. Semantics. Then there were the hamburger denizens, many overseen by popular chefs who once captured audiences with their expense-account locations.

Of course, the ever-present cupcake helped us maintain our obesity status as food trucks even got in on the never-ending dessert action.

This has been the decade for more products available in cryovac to communicate safer food handling. Sous vide preparation moved from the top tier chef to the home aficionado. The home chef became a reality during this past year as so many people saved their dining out dollars for more clever in-home preparations.

Foam magically appeared on many restaurant dishes as molecular gastronomy has become an important technique for many chefs. With that notion, we grew from 3-course prix-fixe menus to extravagant small plates, with big-name chefs striving for 10 or more courses.coolpot We became cooking scientists.

Then there are the words I hope never to see again: E.coli and Salmonella, both too present in our discussions. Too fearful. We purchased way too many containers of hand sanitizers.

The list goes on.

I look for a year, a decade of great food and new traditions.

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Who To Trust?

With all our emphasis on buying local, finding a farmer to supply a restaurant, getting sustainable seafood, and going to restaurants that help support the local economy, it’s difficult to learn that one such restaurant was operating on a pretense of supporting local, sustainable,and the small grower universe. When questions were asked, the answers were less clear. More mumble than definites.

Welcome to the world of almost local and almost sustainable. That’s the story behind one of DC’s more popular restaurants, Founding Farmers. The Washington Post reported that the restaurant’s popularity as a go-to destination for its commitment to the local creed somehow lessened in the past several months. (Check out both links and you’ll get the who said what to whom story). The restaurant bills itself as one that serves fresh farm-to-table food, owned by a collective of family farmers. Menu changes were  not made, and the public was not informed that many of the suppliers were no longer an arms-length away.

Did diners care? That’s, of course, a question. Judging by the crowd scene and the noise level, the restaurant will survive nicely from its buzz as a go-to spot popular for its many communal seatings and generally recognized as a player in the dining scene.

More importantly from my perspective is the question, why, if the restaurant made these supplier changes, were diners, the city, the restaurant community etc not told? There are many wonderful chefs out there throughout the country that decided the big agri-business would not fit their models. They treasure the partnerships and value the fact that they can keep small growers alive. They adjust their menus to seasonality needs and keep everyone informed if their philosophy changes or they make supplier changes.

The Inn at Little Washington, the popular (won every major honor in the food world) 5-star experience in Washington, VA, has, almost since its inception over 30 years ago, supported many nearby small growers. Many of the little guys now have contracts to grow specifically for the Dining Room. That is a model alive in Chicago, Napa, Sonoma, and in multiple major cities throughout the country. Buying local and supporting the little guy has been a positive for the home and restaurant chef whether from a small garden patch or a grass-fed beef supplier.

innatlittlewI love to support the grower, the small producer, the cattle rancher, and sustainable fishmonger, but know larger restaurants need to dip into a bigger pool. I just like to know that what I see printed is fact. I just want the facts.

Just the facts, ma’am.

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Sad Day: Summer No More

We knew it was coming, so there should be no surprises. Today is officially the 1st day of Fall; the end of Summer. In the East, it was a quick, fairly weird summer that began with 4 weeks of rain. mushroom_variety.jpg_1322887158Impenetrable, event-spoiling rain. Activities were shelved, but more importantly summer gardens were sent into turmoil. It’s nice to water new seedlings, but drowning is seldom a positive option. That’s what we had.

Some of the 1st tomatoes were bug-born or less than the big beauties of years past. After the rain; of course, the drought followed. Mother Nature’s watering is far preferable to hand-watering or in-ground sprinklers. Crops were confused, and the bounty of last year’s July was nowhere to be seen this year. August played a fair game, especially at the farm markets where the peaches, nectarines, and plums dominated. So many wonderful cobblers.

Now we are deep into apple season with more varieties than you can spell. Each with a little different taste and crunch; each a veritable treat in itself. Apples and cold-weather crops are fine, but there is something sad about saying goodbye to summer. It feels so final as if we have to hunker in already for winter.

Grab a shovel; there’s still time to do some planting. The Thanksgiving table will appreciate the Fall bounty.

In the meantime, light up the grill and plop down eggplant, peppers, late season squash, and big cloves of garlic: Ratatouille.

Always end with bright news: Mushroom season!

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If You Like It, Plant It Yourself

spinachsaladThere are lots of products that could easily fit under the “grow it yourself” headline, but I think spinach and alfalfa sprouts should qualify for a tie at first place. It seems everytime we turn around there is another recall for one or both of the veggie products. Growing them does not require rocket science, just a little tender loving care and little patience. Then you can take the spinach and alfalfa sprout Salmonella worries off the table. That’s a far better proposition than waiting for the latest recall news: Spinach.

Oh, there’ll be plenty of other contenders who’ll vie for a position, but these two products seem the worst offenders. In prior recalls, spinach has been targeted for possible E.coli concerns, too. If you follow the planting guidelines, you can enjoy homegrown spinach and frequently dine on a healthy, worry-free spinach salad. As for alfalfa sprouts, we’re talking about almost instant gratification: About 6 days and you’ve got a winner.

Be Safe: Trust the Grower.

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The White House and the Farm Market

farmfreshBy all indications, it looks as if The White House is championing efforts for a farm stand, a farmer’s market, near the White House. This has been a wonderful spring and summer with First Lady Michelle Obama openly visible in the city promoting healthy eating and trying to get her message across about fresh, local foods. The White House Garden, by all indications, has been hugely successful and productive. Her outreach to youngsters whether to help dig the Garden, or to taste the fruits of their labor has been met with positive smiles (check out the videos on the Garden website).

The message quite simply says we need to teach the young and their families about the importance of eating healthy, about supporting the farmers, the growers. Now in what looks like a major coup for DC-based FreshFarm Markets, the operators at this new location near The White House. That is if the street permits, closing a small stretch of road near the White House for Thursday afternoons until the end of October, pass the approval process. Since the expected hours for the Market include the dreaded DC Rush Hour, this is not a plan without controversy.

At this point in time (one week before the anticipated opening), it is unclear how much produce, if any, will come from the White House Garden and if that will be made available in a less expensive format to those in need.

One possibility is to add this location to the DOUBLEDOLLARS program that FreshFarm Markets offers at two locations. The Wholesome Wave Foundation has made it possible to provide matching market food dollars to customers who use Food Stamps, WIC, or Senior “Get Fresh” coupons. Such a program provides the necessary outreach to individuals who otherwise would find the local, farm fresh products exorbitantly expensive.

Opening a farm market near the White House, whether produce came from the Garden, or not, would be another important step in the Administration’s food outreach.

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Garden Talk

It’s true sometimes you have to bend down and give the plants a little love. Especially this year on the East Coast when every garden article mentions the late harvest tomato blight which is actually occuring fairly early in the season. In some areas the blight affects potatoes, too–they’re calling it reminiscent of the great potato famine! Not good: Two of my favorites, one wipeout!

Tomatoes have not been themselves lately. Many of the expensive heritages have just not made it–they’ve languished and been tasteless. On restaurant menus you see more tomato soup recipes than salad caprese, a favorite mozzarella pairing. Greenhouse tomatoes, or the old faithful in the garden like the Big Boy, are having a better year. Organic farmers who may lose their whole crop are faced with an even larger dilemma: Spray and save and lose their organic certification or chalk this up to a bad year.

With an increase in home gardening, listening to the land has taught some harsh lessons, but getting a jump on seasonal rituals has helped many preserve their crop, however limited. Canning has already become a popular option and some stores which were caught off guard without enough supply last year are noticing an increase in sales. You need the right equipment. canning-pantry_2062_11864846Canning can be tricky, but there are several steps that ensure food safety. Follow them and you can share your bounty well into next year.

Nothing beats taking out the fruits of your labor in the off season.

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Fresh is Sexy

farmmarketasiancusOr we could say a market a day keeps the doc away. Remember when farm markets were weekend gigs? No more. They’re everywhere; every day. It’s great news. We can buy what we need from jus’ picked and carry home the freshest products available. It’s so exciting to see what appears at the market. Actually you don’t even need a market; a farm stand will do.

This summer it seems that every corner or at least a major cross section of town has a little handwritten sign announcing “fresh produce.” Offshoots or siblings of big farm booths are literally popping up everywhere. The bigger farms have figured out they can spread themselves throughout the area, and set up a stand, and the people will come. Yes, there are crowds of people recognizing how different this food tastes. So different from what the bigger grocers are advertising as “local.” Even though the items are local, they still need to get to the store and get processed. Quite different from sun-kissed in the morning and hauled to the stand waiting for your approval.

There’s little to compare these tastes to. They are mouth-bursting fresh flavors that seldom get duplicated.

Buy for the day.

Here’s a simple recipe: Buy a loaf of bread–go artisan, crusty, and put in a skillet with some olive oil and lemon juice. Toast and turn. Top with fresh cut and diced tomatoes (the sweetest multi-colored cherries are a terrific choice), cucumbers, peppers, onions, some basil or cilantro, and a little red wine vinegar. So good. So fresh. So slurpy with flavor.

Lunch.

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Composter Love

This has been quite a year: I’ve learned to use very few paper towels, I’ve stopped scrubbing dishes clean before putting in the dishwasher, and I’ve become E, the Environmental woman. Yes, it’s true, as with everything I do, I do it wholeheartedly. All or nothing; it’s all.

I’ve been trying to figure out the whole composting ritual. I know New Yorkers who take their scraps in little Ziplocs on the train from the outlying boroughs into Manhattan to the GreenMarket composter. I know someone out in the country who has been swearing by these little green machines. He’s right. I’m sold.

I’ve had it two days and become a master. After all, you know how much coffee I drink and how I revere my espresso, and that coffee grounds make the soil thrive. Am convinced if I just composted the coffee grounds, my soil would be smiling and writing thank you notes. In the two days I have been in love with my new toy, we’ve been to the Farm Market and bought plenty of fresh veggies and fruit. The composter gracefully accepted the tops from the fresh beets, the peach pits, and the inners from the tomatoes.

The important wet-dry balance enabled me to shred all the class Z mail and feed it into the composter. Now we’re talking.

Maybe the best is I’ll no longer have to warn people about olive pits going into the garbage disposal (Yes, I know, we still use the disposal, but use it far less). The composter does not want meats, fish, and dairy, but loves egg shells.  Olive pits get composted, and we all appreciate the quiet.

Step aside, coming through with my kitchen counter gleanings.

This is a perfect solution for hard-rock soil and my newly minted environmental attitude.

thankyou

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When Is a Tomato Not a Tomato

IMG00520It’s so hard to relive the past, even to go back a year. Look at the garden. Last year it was a phenomenal summer on the East Coast. Everyone’s gardens were brimming with produce. Many redefined generosity and contributed handsomely to other people’s dinner tables.

This year, not so much. When many people wanted to plant, we were in the midst of multiple, dark, dreary weeks of rain. Gardens finally went into the very wet soil, and shoots immediately responded. Not necessarily crops, but good looking vines gave definition to the landscape. Unfortunately when one expected to be having nightly bowls of gazpacho, the picking’s were slim. The weeks of rain gave way to a severe dry spell, and the confused crops bore little fruit, much of it not as handsome as in the past.

Whole gardens succumbed to a blight, and tomatoes bore little resemblance to last year’s beauties. Many people complained about the shortage of cucumbers, and the whole gazpacho plan seemed doomed. Farmers know what they need, and it is RAIN. Small growers, as in back yard aficionados, know what they need, and it is RAIN. One single downpour will not make the season a success, but it surpasses the days of expectation with severe warnings of what’s to come and nothing arrives. Watering cannot solve the dryness from the hot, humid days.

We’ve never had to purchase this many tomatoes before, but what would summer be without a thick, juicy, hot vine ripe beauty. Maybe they’ll still make it, but right now we are left with these pale, pathetic mutants bearing more green than lipstick red, and missing the critical taste component. Hard to call them tomatoes.

Time to buy more seeds and try for fall.

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Crisis in the Salad Aisle

First I become enamored by salad–see Salad Wars–and then I was told to be a little more cautious. Things are a little more confusing, possibly dangerous. What? Not this again.

Yes, it has been the year of food recalls, and this one regarding romaine lettuce is all the more painful since I’ve returned to the salad aisle. We’re talking about a product that was shipped to 29 states–do the math, there are only 50 states, this type of recall, whether merely cautionary or not, affects a large number of people and companies.

It almost doesn’t matter what food is being recalled, but that food recalls have become so numerous, and we as consumers are so vulnerable. This has been the year of the peanut butter, pistachio, and refrigerated cookie dough recall–all products that cut across a broad swath of our society. As we try to improve food safety and consider giving the FDA greater powers and more staff, we are still left without 100% confidence.

It always goes back to the question of who to trust. Even if you have befriended your local farmer and visit numerous farm stands for your fruits and vegetables, there are still plenty of days you need to pop into the supermarket, sometimes just for that extra head of lettuce or some cilantro, another product recently on the recall list.180px-Koeh-193

Whether you call it coriander or cilantro, lettuce or romaine, it behooves us to stay alert.

Time to start more seeds for the fall homegrown crops!

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