The Harvard study exposes the faults of generalizing food changes as they take apart each segment and enhance the approach with specificity. For instance with proteins they say not all proteins have the same value for eating healthy. They suggest limiting meat intake and choosing other, healthier foods such as fish, poultry, or beans. They define their adjustments as the Healthy Eating Plate.

The Harvard study is not a complaint against the categories but a source of additional information on how that plate should be filled.  Specifics matter; not just categories. Let’s break it down:

–Fill 1/2 of the plate with fruits and vegetables and focus on adding as much color and variety. They say, “potatoes and French fries do not count as vegetables” because of their high carb count which create the same sugar high as sweets. Interestingly some reports came out this week favoring white fruits as the healthier fruits. Not this study!

–Put whole grains on 1/4 of your plate. Use brown rice and whole-grain pasta and limit white rice and other refined grains.

–Make a protein choice the final 1/4 of the plate. They say eggs are fine (unless there are some additional health limitations), but red meat and processed meats such as cold cuts and bacon should be avoided.

–Use healthy oils such as olive and canola and limit intake of butter.

–Drink water, tea, or coffee (with little or no sugar) and limit milk/dairy and juice consumption.

The researchers believe that the above specifics further define the overall categories of the new food guidelines and increase the heart-healthy benefits of careful eating. They stress the importance of staying active as an inherent component of any approach to improving lifestyle choices

Now if we could just figure out how to get enough food to people that have little choice in their selections, each of these plate approaches would have greater, long-term benefits.

The major undertaking of a food exhibit, “What’s Cooking Uncle Sam,” a pop-up restaurant, American Eats Tavern, and a cookbook, Eating with Uncle Sam, has added a whole new chapter to the collections from the Archives and the Presidential libraries. Yes, food has played an important role in our history and much of what we do and comment on today within the universe of food has its earliest roots tied into a major document that has been preserved. Think of the current trendy chef movement toward the healthy concept of Meatless Mondays. It was during World War II that Americans were asked to have a meatless day (Tuesday) and such a tradition remained a strong staple of households many years after the War ended.

Touring the exhibit at the Archives gives one a bountiful repast of our history and how food evolved within the culture. Dining nearby at the Jose Andres restaurant (America Eats Tavern), lets one celebrate our history with a taste of the original recipes. After all how many types of Catsup have evolved over the years! A good way to test your palate. Now it all comes together with this new book.

One of the most discussed posters in the exhibit is entitled “Eat the Carp” which serves as an introduction to the fish chapter which includes a recipe for Paprikosh (1917-20) which today we might call a fish hash. Or try Lady Bird Johnson’s famous Shrimp Squash Casserole.

If sweets are more to your liking, there are plenty of recipes to try including Aunt Sammy’s Radio Recipe of Fruit Cake. After all, we wonder how some recipes ever evolved! How about a recipe for Fondant with the accompanying 1917-19 poster “Sugar: Save It.”

These little tastes should help you set a table of historical recipes. If you can’t make it to the Archives before the exhibit closes in early January, then take a You Tube tour.

In the meantime, enjoy the history and the recipes as you recognize the importance of keeping records.

Chips. Now that’s a word used frequently as the exalted Potato has a life of its own. Yes, you can ask for your chips extra crispy, no problem. To go with the chips, you might get a side of new potatoes. No one wants the fresh veggies to be alone in a side plate! Since it seems everyone you meet is some sort of farmer or has a strong tie to the land, getting a new potato is almost a joke of the phrase. Of course, it’s new as in just dug up! If it’s a vegetable you crave, and mushrooms you favor, you’ll be delighted. I may have enjoyed the best side of Portobellos I’ve ever had!

Besides the line caught fish, there are an abundance of seafood choices for those who prefer the popular seafood chowders or want to begin their morning with a few fresh oysters. April normally has a limited supply of the oysters, and often small, but this year’s bizarre cold and snowy winter has chefs delighted with a variety of large-sized bivalves.

Of course, the salmon, the lox, the smoked fish: It’s all there and all fresh-caught or prepared in a nearby smokehouse.

When you inquire about a dish, the person taking your order is apt to wax eloquently about its flavors, almost regardless of the item. Look at the meats. Yes, it’s true that the lamb, prepared any number of ways, speaks volumes about lifestyle. Grass-fed is the norm in the country as animals roam the hills and freely eat without much exposure to a penned life. The taste comes through with every bite. Fat? No. Meat, yes.

As we in the states put up banners shouting “LOCAL”, and take great pride in what our farmers are producing and carrying into the city, we are reminded how far we have come and far we must go. Packaged and processed are not words that should be in our vocabulary.

Let’s celebrate Earth Month with a strong focus on how we can continue to emulate what some countries have been doing as their norm.

Champion the fresh.

The specifics are important. First of all they will stop selling (yes, first they have to finish their stock and commitment orders) the wild species they call at the greatest risk of being overfished. That list includes Atlantic cod and halibut, Chilean sea bass, halibut from Greenland, grouper, monkfish, orange roughy, redfish, shark, skates and rays, swordfish and bluefin tuna. They do not plan to reintroduce these fish into their lineup unless the sources are certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC). The Council identifies itself as “the world’s leading certification  and ecolabelling program for sustainable seafood.”

Secondly, Costco has expanded its relationship with the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), a non-governmental organization that works closely on sustainable aquaculture issues. Costco has charged them with determining how well the Thailand-based companies that supply farmed shrimp are working to meet the defined standards for shrimp farming. That same approach is being studied with farmed Atlantic salmon. As any Costco shopper knows, Atlantic salmon is a majoone who visits a Costco knows is a major fish product for the company. Again Costco is working with suppliers and making certain that standards are being adhered.

What does this all mean for consumers? Maybe the first step is to applaud Costco’s decision (and other companies that are taking these bold steps) and follow that strategy into our own shopping, regardless of the marketplace. Similarly, when we dine out and find these overfished varietiess on menus, we need to question the establishment. Chefs have plenty of fish to work with that meet sustainability standards and can become beautiful center-of-the plate entrees.

Let’s applaud companies that have solid sustainability programs and likewise recognize restaurants that demonstrate responsible, sustainable performance.

We will all be better off with these actions!

NOAA began fishery area closures over a month ago and continues to make adjustments as the spill trajectory changes. The current federal closure entails 32% of areas known to be affected by oil either on or below the surface as well as areas projected to be affected within the next 48-72 hours. As a further precaution, they created a 5-nautical mile buffer around the known locations of oil. They are working to protect the seafood at the docks and at the processors to help prevent tainted products from ever reaching the marketplace.

As of this time they have taken over 600 samples, of which 400 were sent to NOAA’s Seattle testing laboratory for chemical analysis. Meanwhile the FDA has set up a hotline for fisherman and consumers to report and stay updated on the ever-growing fish and seafood matter. Some states have instituted temporary closures for saltwater fish, crabs, and shrimp. Most of these actions are considered precautionary and everyone at this point concurs that the fish we find in restaurants and markets is perfectly safe for consumption. The industry has been hard-hit by fear so we should not abandon its efforts.

As consumers we need to keep abreast of these posts and trust the vendors from whom we purchase our fish and seafood. Now is not the time for anyone to get sloppy with this issue. Honesty and appropriate analysis must be the only routes for those who want to maintain a diet of fish.

It is our world.

As for consumers who favor fish and seafood as mainstays of their diets, then there are several additional issues. First of all, concern for the fishermen and concern about food safety. Alot has been written on both subjects and how perilous the existence for many fishermen was already. Some have become Internet savvy and figured out how to sell directly to the consumer. Smart move and logical strategy.

Yet, when one studies the numbers of fish and seafood that start life in the Gulf, then the problem takes on an even more pervasive tone; one with greater impact for legions more individuals. Take a basic example, tuna, as a fish few people would even associate with these Gulf waters, but in reality, almost all species of tuna spawn from this region. Think about that and recognize how little we really know. How massive this problem is to our food supply and its direct impact on many of the foods we take for granted.

Surely, we expect pricing changes. Hopefully these will be market-based spikes, not those set by gougers looking for a quick profit. In many states, there is already a limited supply of certain fish and seafood. For shrimpers, it is a casualty almost immeasurable. The watermen, a dwindling profession nationwide, are feeling more than a pinch; more like a tidal wave of continual bad news.

As shoppers we can ask at the market where the fish comes from, but the easiest way to allay our potential anxiety is to stay in touch with the daily updates from the Louisiana Seafood Promotion & Marketing Board. Yes, I see the word promotion in its title but this is the good kind of effort; the one that focuses on information dispersal. We need to know and they have a lot to report.

Yes, prices will rise, and numerous chefs will hold fundraisers for their industry, but as consumers we can show our support by not abandoning an industry and a part of the country that needs our support.

Read the daily updates, talk to your fishmonger, and stay with an industry that needs us now more than ever.

The specific area of greatest concern at the moment is fish and seafood. Where is it coming from? This is a very difficult time as we watch so much of the Gulf fishing region (1/3 of our seafood comes from this area) struggle to have any fish to catch and supply. The stories from the fisherman are all devastatingly sad. Questions arise when and if this area will be able to return to its prior position in the food chain. There are numerous reports attesting to the possibilities of a strong future, but at the present time, the news is bleak for the fisherman and the consumer.

Several markets had supply on hand since they were able to purchase quantity and could easily store the fish. Others have not been as lucky. Some were also hit with the European volcanic eruption which stalled any hopes of getting salmon to the US, but then the Alaska wild came in: Problem solved. It’s seafood such as shrimp, crabs, and oysters and fish such as grouper and snapper that are currently in the most limited supply column and receiving our attention. You can check the supply and safety issues as information gets updated daily.

When your market runs a sale of one of these products, it is time to ask the question: Where is it from and when did it come in?

Regardless of the food issue, we need to hold the cards and ask the questions. Information changes quickly and with something as diverse and confusing as the oil spill, this minute’s answer may not apply in 10!

For the record, all current reports indicate the fish and seafood is safe to eat, albeit we will pay a premium. As for tomorrow and the future, we need to stay focused and make certain we are aware of the information cycle and make any necessary adjustments to our shopping.

Let’s begin with a look at sustainable fish and ways to not depleting our supplies. Poor fish report cards have had their effect on Trader Joe’s and Target, and they promise to join the legions of grocers who support the sustainable movement.

Hats off today to The Cleanfish Alliance. They are all about bringing fish to the marketplace that are not examples of overfishing. They support the efforts of sustainable fisheries and try to establish a link between producers, chefs, and consumers. One of their greatest strengths comes from supporting and finding farmers who are raising fish that many thought had disappeared from the everyday landscape. Some examples of fish that are grabbing headlines are the American White Sturgeon and the all-popular Caviar grown in mineral rich spring water. Laughing Bird Shrimp from Belize, a favorite among grocers broadcasting their sustainable seafood list and from restaurants that proudly list the Caribbean white shrimp. Farmed Arctic Char has become a popular fish both in markets and restaurants.

If you want to study the scorecard and determine which fish are best for eating and not depleting, then check out Seafood Watch from the Monterey Bay Aquarium. This will help you make proper purchases and stay within the sustainable guidelines. Check out the sushi recommendations, too.

Good work: Sustainable fish and seafood and healthy green, earth-friendly eating.

We are off to a good start for Earth Week.

The problem is a global one. We can do all this wonderful work domestically from our top-tier US chefs, but the issue does not get resolved if only a few of the world’s major players are on the program. This week we had good news in the sustainability column from Target and Safeway: Target, with help from the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch guidelines, will no longer buy and sell farm-raised salmon. They plan to sell only wild-caught Alaskan salmon.

By following this road, they hope to contribute to keeping the ocean cleaner, free of pollutants from the myriad of factory fish farms. This is all part of Target’s growing emphasis on the food side of its business. Safeway turned to the marine conservation group, FishWise to have them help set up a stronger sustainability policy. They will no longer sell red snapper, monkfish, or grouper until there is a proven ample supply of these fish. They will also concentrate on providing traceability information. This latter fact is part of a growing food trend that says, tell me everything you can about a product. Give me its roots; its history.

Here’s a little primer of connections that can serve as a fish road map: A new Pocket Guide is available.

As more companies get on board, we are more likely able to sustain our supply and enjoy fresh fish.

When lobster prices were hitting rock bottom this summer and some lobster roll spots were still charging more than a pretty penny for the popular dish, an enterprising guy from Cape Elizabeth, Maine, checked in with his dad, owner of a seafood company with strong ties to the lobstermen. They came up with a perfect solution: Luke’s Lobster.

This almost two-month old space demonstrates that you can serve fresh seafood from Maine and not rock the bank account. They even package some choices to give the whole flavor of the state, a lobster, crab, or shrimp roll with Miss Vickie’s Chips, and a Maine Root drink. As a way of giving back, they donate a portion of their profit to the Maine Lobstermen’s Association. Good plan: Thank the source.

Stay in the East Village and grab a sweet repast you’ll longingly remember. No matter how many times you visit Veniero’s, you’ll be amazed at its consistency as a top Italian bakery. If you want tradition in the Italian art of delicious sweets, they capture your tastebuds. Walk past the bakery display (if you can control yourself) to the seating area so you can sit comfortably and enjoy the full experience. I recommend, always recommend, the chocolate cannoli and an almond cookie to accompany the perfect espresso.

Before you leave lower Manhattan, consider a stop at Russ & Daughters. Yes, in continuing to blend the new (Luke’s, the Bakeri) with the traditional (Veniero’s and Russ’s), you’ll find yourself overwhelmed by the quality and the care from a true fishmonger. You might go in to get a little hand-sliced lox, but you’ll probably leave with several other tidbits. If it’s corned beef you want, you’re just a hop away from Katz’s.

Grab an L train for a short ride to Williamsburg and the new Bakeri for a taste of perfection: baguette, brioche, croissant or… with an exacting cappuccino. They even make some sandwiches and soups. Do not mind the clock, as time travels slowly here, reminiscent of a European cafe. Why rush something so good?  The back garden is a true respite; bundle up and take the espresso outside.

If you’re planning to walk around the hyper-trendy Williamsburg, then you might stay for dinner; lots of well-priced options from unbelievable chicken at Peter’s to true Middle Eastern falafel at Oasis.

So many choices for a quick walk-around weekend.

Til next time.

Once again there is a handy fish guide (A Mercury Calculator) directing us to safety and telling us what to avoid. The big question is simply: Is fish safe? Well it depends. Assume there is mercury contamination present in all US-water based fish. Then decide if you are asking about a young child, a pregnant woman, or a healthy adult. Recognizing that some fish contain less mercury than others and some should be avoided all together helps minimally. You need to know which fish to eat; some, such as canned light tuna, you can have multiple helpings of each week. One that is particularly high in contaminants is swordfish, a fish small children and women of child-bearing age should avoid altogether. The EPA even has this “One Fish…Two Fish” poster available as a reminder.

The most recent announcement from the US Geologic Survey says mercury contamination is higher than expected and almost impossible to avoid.

Know what you eat. It just gets harder to find safe, healthy foods.

Fish and seafood selections are often the core of heated dialogue. Knowing which fish to eat and determining its sustainability: Is it wild, farm-raised, US waters, etc creates a complicated conversation.

A handy pocketsize guide from the Monterey Bay Aquarium takes the guesswork out of the equation. Each section of the country has its own regional seafood watch. A so-called “best choice” fish has high availability and is caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways. The guide also has updated recommendations for some of the most popular fish choices such as shrimp, cod, and tilapia.

Greenpeace recently issued its annual supermarket report card (“Carting Away the Oceans,” a retailer scorecard) for fish.Some grocers improved, but Trader Joe’s , a progressively smart chain, still fails in the sustainable seafood category, but plans to make adjustments and follow the guidelines from Monterey Bay Aquarium.

In other grocer/sustainability news, Wegmans took marlin off the menu in response to the national campaign to prevent the fish’s extinction. Giant Food partnered with the experts from the New England Aquarium to make certain they are following sustainable practices. These are significant changes; all welcome news.

No single program can change everyone’s eating habits, but the ongoing program from The Humane Society, the Canadian fish boycott (The ProtectSeals Network) encourages chefs, grocers, and shoppers to avoid Canadian fish until the fishermen stop clubbing and killing seals for the highly prized fur. A quick tip: Avoid crab legs from Canadian waters.

We worry about so many issues: Overfishing, under supply, extinction, and mistreatment. All these considerations help us narrow our choices into smart decisions.

Now there is a freshness indicator that will put our anxiety into check. Fresh Direct, the New York City full-service grocery delivery service has adopted a star rating system to help consumers select the best fish for the day they want delivery. The Daily Seafood Rating System (which is similar to their produce rating program) takes the guesswork out of selection and makes meal planning almost effortless. The company believes that more consumers will venture beyond their “regular fish selections” and depend on the rating system to try different products.

There are guides and an abundance of recipes to help us sort through the taste differences and cooking methods (click on the link for recipes) for a broad range of fish. Hopefully, in the not too distant future, a fish rating system will become an industry standard.

Then we can just select the fish and not ask the question.